![]() While an exact origin story for these sandwiches is tough to pinpoint, Chinese American restaurants in the early- and mid-20th century sometimes tried to appeal to Western tastes by serving certain dishes between buns or bread. It also seems slightly more at home in the hamburger bun. ![]() Pepper steak ($4.30) has a bit more punch, with an assertive gravy, meaty flavor, and plentiful green peppers. The mild-flavored mixture has notes of chicken, celery, and a general umami, while the well-cooked bean sprouts provide a subtle textural counterpart to the soft bun. Bobbie remembered correctly that Salem Lowe serves its sandwiches with a fork, but I started off eating mine like a taco, with the top bun cradling the chop suey filling. The chop suey sandwich - with a price that feels like a relic of another time, $2.94 - is singular, though it evokes other difficult-to-eat delights like the sloppy joe. She refers to them as “chop suey rolls” and remembers them as “awful” - but quickly adds, “I used to love getting them.” At her urging, I drove up to try one, along with Salem Lowe’s other specialty, the pepper steak sandwich: slices of beef with green bell pepper in a brown gravy. On a recent evening, one bite transported me back to the Chinese American restaurants of my youth, where, in a time-honored Jewish ritual, I often spent Sunday nights with my great uncle and aunt, Mickey and Bobbie.īobbie, 84, is from Salem and fondly recalls eating chop suey sandwiches at the Salem Willows in the 1940s. It can be found in a few other spots in Salem that remain in operation, such as Kiki’s and Mei Lee Express, but Salem Lowe’s version is what people talk about when they talk about chop suey sandwiches. Not to be confused with Fall River’s chow mein sandwich - which includes crispy noodles and features a brown gravy - the chop suey sandwich is almost entirely made of bean sprouts, plus bits of chicken, in a mild, glossy sauce thickened with cornstarch. ![]() Current owner David Yee dates his iconic restaurant back to 1912 on August 14, he will close it for good, ending a long legacy of chop suey sandwiches by the sea. ![]()
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